Our new home has a pool! It’s crazy but true. We both grew up with swimming pools, but here in LA they aren’t as common as property and yards are much smaller. We’ve taken it upon ourselves to maintain our pool and the new Polaris 9650iQ Robotic Pool Cleaner has been a big help.
Maintaining a swimming pool is an easy task, but requires diligence and a bit of know-how when it comes to balancing the PH levels and chlorine. Regular brushing, skimming, and filter clearing are important, and the Polaris has proven to keep our pool clean the last few months.
Our backyard is full of trees—which we love, but they shed leaves, seeds, and berries, which eventually find their way into our pool. After a few days this debris sinks to the bottom and requires skimming to remove. With the Polaris setup and running, we’ve had to clear much less stuff and the bottom and sides of our pool are much cleaner. We still brush the pool regularly, but the Polaris also helps with keeping the surface clear of algae and dirt.
The Polaris 9650iQ Sport robotic pool cleaner is the only robotic pool cleaner with built-in Wi-Fi that allows it to be controlled through the iAquaLink app. You can set/edit schedules or literally control the cleaner like you would control an RC car. You can access and control the 9650iQ Sport from anywhere through your phone or tablet. The all-wheel drive Polaris climbs the walls with ease and is easy to remove and store when not in use.
There is no need for extra hoses that plug into your filter system. The Polaris is self-contained and the powered base station is plugged into a standard AC outlet and all debris is swept into the onboard basket and then dumped when you are finished cleaning.
The Polaris 9650iQ is really a must-have accessory for any pool owner and it’s saved us a ton of time and energy cleaning the pool.
]]>Home security and monitoring is easier than ever. But finding a wireless camera with easy setup, great performance, and value, is tougher than it sounds. We recently checked out the new VTech VC931 HD wireless pan & tilt camera—and recommend it for the high-definition video quality, night vision, and pan and tilt camera control.
We installed the VC931 in our downstairs den. It monitors the sliding glass door and den area, which would be a common place for a thief to break into our home. Beyond the peace of mind the VC931 provides, we have found it useful for monitoring the activities of our 5-year old son. We no longer have to yell throughout the house to locate him, as we simply open the app and will usually find him playing with his magnatiles or building Legos. We’re expecting a baby in April, and considering getting another VC931 to use as a baby monitor.
We had a stationary camera setup in the den when we moved in, but the limited view was a real bummer. The pan and tilt feature of the VC931 allows us to easily scan and zoom the room using the app, with a swipe or pinch of your fingers. Grainy videos are not an issue as the VC931 provides high-definition resolution in daylight as well as during night vision.
There are a ton of other features available with the VTech VC931 that you’d only expect from a camera costing much more. These include:
An unexpected bonus with the VC931 is that it looks good on our shelf. It’s small and discrete, which is what we want. It’s also silent when moving, so it won’t call attention to itself. We’re thoughtful about every item we display on our shelves and this camera takes up such little room there is no need to design around it.
The VTech VC931 is currently available on their website for $120. That’s a heck of a deal considering all that you get in this tiny camera.
This is a sponsored conversation written by me on behalf of Vtech. The opinions and text are all mine.
]]>These tractors and riding mowers are targeted to the residential consumer or hobby farmer and since we have almost zero-experience using this equipment we can vouch for how easy it is hop aboard and get to work.
The key here is ease of use as anyone who invests in a riding mower most likely has a bit more lawn than they can handle with a traditional push mower and is looking for the ease and simplicity of cutting their lawn with a riding mower.
You do need a bit more space to store your riding mower but don’t think of this as heavy equipment. The riding mowers from John Deere and others include a lot of great amenities such as cup holders, headlights, onboard storage and comfortable seats.
Home Depot now has a full-line up of riding mowers including the John Deere D100 series which will soon be replaced by the E110. They also have a fleet of zero-turn models available that are similar to the ones we tested in August.
The new lineup of E100 series mowers will feature their new Easy Change 30-Second Oil Change System. This integrated system, makes it possible for consumers to change their mower oil by simply twisting on a new cartridge that contains both the oil and the filter – no engine oil drainage needed. A daunting task that was once difficult, slow and messy is now easy, quick and clean.
Traditional riding mowers are the simplest to own, operate and maintain. Most models from John Deere, Toro and Cub Cadet, now come with comfortable seats, large steering wheels and easy to reach pedals.
The zero-turn models take a bit more getting used to but are extremely fast and once you get the hang of driving and operating them you’ll be whizzing around your yard in no time. They are called zero-turn as you use a system of levers to operate them. Push them both forward and you’ll go forward, pull them both back and you’ll go back but push them in opposite ways and you’ll turn on a dime.
Before you head off to Home Depot you can check out their full-lineup from their website of John Deere mowers as well as models from top brands such as Toro, Ariens and Cub Cadet.
It always helps to do your research first online and then print up comparables and bring them with you when shopping.
We think you should treat yourself to a riding mower this Spring, don’t you?!
]]>The job site lighting category has exploded in the last couple years. It quickly went from the traditional heavy, hot, halogen towers that everyone used to lightweight, durable, and cordless LED lights in all shapes and sizes. Milwaukee’s advancement in battery technology with their always improving M18 platform has made their job site lighting lineup shine even brighter.
We’ve had the M18 Rocket LED for a few years, and the newest generation light is one of our most used lighting solutions. It’s compact, portable, and illuminates the darkest rooms or environments. We’ve transported ours to work sites everywhere and it easily fits in the back of the truck or behind the seats. People are always amazed by the easy open stand and omnidirectional lense. The beauty of this light is that is can also run on AC and will serve as a charger when needed.
In addition to the M18 Rocket, our two handheld lights get the most action. We use them for working under the sink, under the hood of our truck, to camping, and around the house. Our go to handheld lights are the M18 LED Stick Light and M18 LED Lantern/Flood light. They’ve been dropped from ladders, dragged through the dirt, and coated with oil, and they’ve never failed.
The Milwaukee Tool handheld light we reach for the most is their Penlight. It’s small and sturdy and delivers Trueview light, so you’ll never have to guess if a red is really a brown or if a green is maybe a blue? The clip makes it easy to stash and the water resistant push-button will never fail.
From Milwaukee’s Rover lineup we’ve got the original M18 Rover flood light and the new M18 Rover Mounting flood light. Both of these lights are made to illuminate a targeted area in a bath of Trueview light. The new Mounting flood has a spring loaded mechanism that allows you to secure it to a 2×4, storage shelf, or anywhere else that it can clamp to.
That last group of lights that Milwaukee Tool has are their Radius LED lights. These lights are designed to illuminate entire rooms and provide the most coverage possible. The M18 Radius with One-Key is currently the only Milwaukee light that can be controlled via the One-Key app.
These lights are the ones we have the most experience with, and within each category there are many others to choose from. We know Milwaukee will continue to innovate in lighting and we look forward to seeing what they announce at this years new tool symposium.
]]>Closing on our new home signaled the end of the buying process, and the beginning of the journey towards making the house our home. The first step towards achieving this was painting the entire interior of the house, as well as the front exterior. We knew this would make the most dramatic change to the house and provide the most bang for the buck. We’ve been fans of Benjamin Moore paint for years, and were ecstatic when they agreed to partner with us to paint our home.
Our 1940 traditional home has great bones, and overall the walls aren’t in bad shape either, but the previous owner had an eclectic taste in colors and nearly every room was a different shade of blue, brown, green, or red. Sponge painting techniques were used liberally and there were a few rooms that looked as if a six-year-old painted them.
We had the vision to look beyond the rainbow of colors, and saw the potential of how our modern palette would work. It was helpful to mock up some exterior photos in photoshop and we took the time to test a variety of colors and sheens, during all times of day.
We chose Benjamin Moore Aura as we wanted a high-quality and no-VOC paint, that was safe for our family and durable enough to last for years. Covering red and other dark colors, often takes multiple coats of paint, but with Aura we only needed one coat of primer and two coats of of paint to achieve our desired results.
You’d think choosing a white paint would be easy, until you see how many variations of white Benjamin Moore offers. It’s difficult to see a difference in the swatches, which is why you need to see them side by side on the wall. It’s only then that the various hues and shades will appear based on the lighting in the room and the other colors such as the floors and furniture that will complement your walls.
We narrowed it down to four different whites and painted 1 foot x 1 foot squares on various walls throughout the house. We could have selected a different white for each room, but we wanted to go with a uniform look. We needed a white that could act as a chameleon and look great in multiple rooms and and complement different colored furniture, flooring, and other paint colors. Fortunately one white stood out from the rest.
We chose Benjamin Moore Chantilly Lace OC-65, as the white which would cover 90% of the interior of our home. According to Benjamin Moore, Chantilly Lace is defined, “As delicate and refined as the lace it was named after, this crisp, clean white evokes images of pure silk, soft linen and simpler times.” We couldn’t agree more. Crisp and clean, without being harsh or too blue was what we were looking for. We wanted a white that would work in every room, including our den which we went for a really big contrast.
Selecting a sheen was an easy choice as we’ve got a young one (and one on the way), so bumping into the walls and grabbing them seems like one of his favorite pastimes. Aura is extremely durable, washable, and in eggshell, provides just enough pop. We also painted the ceilings in flat throughout the home, and went semi-gloss for the trim and doors.
The den located on the lower level of our home, consisted of wood paneling as well as two different browns that covered the walls and ceiling. We were a bit torn on keeping the wood paneling, but ultimately decided to keep it, but by painting it a dark color we could modernize it.
We also did the same for the wood hearth above the fireplace. We wanted a black, but not one that completely contrasted with Chantilly Lace white. We settled on Benjamin Moore Black Beauty 2128-10 for the wood panel of our den as well as some areas of the front exterior. The black wasn’t too deep, and provided a nice contrast to Chantilly Lace. Black Beauty also looked great on the wood grain, and unexpectedly brought out some great texture in the wood.
Our dining room features a Scandinavian table set and mid-century chandelier. Our original wood floors complement the original wall features which we wanted to retain. Chantilly Lace works well in this room which is bathed in light throughout the day.
The breakfast nook just off our kitchen was one of the most difficult rooms to setup, as we plan on remodeling the kitchen in the near future and don’t want to make any design choices that would only be short-term. We chose a modern white table and chair set helps pop the splash of color from the art hanging in the corner. Again, Chantilly Lace looks great in this space and we are going to appreciate its durability and easy to clean attributes being next to the kitchen.
Our son’s bedroom was one of the most shoddily painted rooms when we moved in, but after a fresh coat of Benjamin Moore, it now radiates with the warmth and energy we all desired.
Our living room is central to the home and where we spend time working as well as entertaining. This room has a southern exposure and receives full sun throughout most of the morning. We didn’t want a white that would cast too much of a blue hue, but rather we preferred a warmer glow, which Chantilly Lace provided.
The final room where Benjamin Moore paint made the most impact, was our guest bath. It’s a tiny room, but after a new coat of Chantilly Lace paint on the walls and Black Beauty on the cabinets, we had an entirely new looking room. We weren’t sure if the dark color would make the room seem smaller, but it actually had the opposite effect. Our little dark guest bath, is now featured gem of the house.
Painting our home has proven to be the biggest bang for the buck improvement. We were able to immediately put our own stamp on house, and can start with a blank slate when it comes to future design. Check back for our next article on designing and painting the exterior of our home, which was possibly even more dramatic.
Watch video on YouTube here: Commercial Roofing Denver via Commercial Roofing Pros
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Watch video on YouTube here: Commercial Roofing Denver via Commercial Roofing Pros
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Watch video on YouTube here: Commercial Roofing Denver
via Commercial Roofing Pros
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via Commercial Roofing Pros
Even a well-played instrument impacts roommates, neighbors, and family. Whether you play in a big house or a small apartment, it’s important to strike a balance between quiet and the sound of music. Here are a few tips to help soundproof a room.
Find gaps in door or window frames. A sound escapes through even a tiny gap. Reduce them by adding a door sweep, covering windows with thick curtains, or lining your heating and cooling ducts with soundproofing liner.
If your room has hard surfaces, the sound will reverberate, which means it will bounce around and hit surfaces repeatedly. Combat reflection with textiles and soundproof materials. Cover floors with carpeting or thick rugs, hang material from the wall, install soundproof curtains, or tack up vinyl or install acoustic insulation. Avoid cheap alternatives, such as egg cartons and mattresses – these are ugly and ineffective.
If you live in a small space, consider adding a false ceiling or replacing hollow doors with solid, heavy core ones. Also, take note of shared walls and consider moving your instruments to a garage or a shed in your backyard.
If you have an unused guest room, why not turn it into a recording studio? Here are some tips:
1. Cancel feedback from electrical equipment by placing items like amps far away from microphones.
2. Don’t annihilate sound reflection; leave spots open and treat them with diffusers.
3. Think about installing bass traps to dampen the sound for lower frequencies.
4. Have plenty of outlets and make sure they’re the right wattage for your equipment.
5. Think seasonally. Will the AC clicking on and blowing into your studio alter your sound?
6. Think about the number of musicians that will be playing in your room and arrange it accordingly.
7. Maximize your space by using appropriately-sized equipment.
Original article from Redfin
]]>Bosch has just changed the tool tracking game by introducing GPS tool tracking technology on their newest breaker hammer. This GPS technology is also available as a retrofit on current breaker hammer models.
Bluetooth tool trackers from Milwaukee and others, have been the only tool tracking game in town until now. While these Bluetooth systems have their merits, they are limited in range. Job site managers have no recourse if the tool goes missing from the job site, but with the GPS tracking technology, you can follow it’s every movement, anywhere and at anytime.
Bosch has been on the sidelines with tracking devices and they will be jumping into the Bluetooth tool management game later this year with, Bluehound, which looks to be a direct competitor to Milwaukee’s One-Key.
We hope Bosch can really deliver with the GPS tracking tech and that it trickles down to the rest of their tool lineup including their 18V and 12V tools. It’s bound to happen, and it looks like Bosch has the lead on this.
]]>Dewalt made a splash last year with the first cordless table saw, but their 10″ job site table saw can be found on almost every construction site in the country. It’s legendary toughness and accuracy make it a must-have tool for builders everywhere.
Job site table saws require rugged durability as they must always perform despite being transported the back of a truck or knocked over at the job site. Maintaining accurate cuts is also vital to their reputation, and Dewalt makes the cut (literally).
Available for $499 at Home Depot, this saw is a steal and it also includes a stand. DIYers with small workshops will also benefit from this job site saw, as it can be easily stored and perform most of the cuts that a contractor saw can do.
With a 90 day money back guarantee and 3 year warranty, Dewalt stands behind their table saw like they do with all of their tools.
]]>As a seasoned DIYer who lives on the west coast I’ve only really shopped for sidewinder saws which I always just called circular saws. But circular saws also come in another variation which is a worm drive saw.
It seems there is a regional bias for what type of saw contractors use. Early on the sidewinder saws were marketed to the east coast and the worm drive to the west coast. The SKIL 77 worm drive saw is a legendary workhorse and many right-handers prefer it because you don’t have to look over the motor to see the blade cut. Sidewinders have become the preferred choice among DIYers because of their lighter weight and lower cost.
Sidewinder vs. Wormdrive
Robert breaks down the differences for me.
Carpenters from coast to coast have used worm drive saws for framing, stair and roof rafter construction. The “Worm drive” is the name of the gears inside the saw. The motor drives a worm gear that transfers power to the blade. Because of this a worm drive has more torque and will cut when a direct drive saw would stall out. Which means more powerful!
It also means more weight and for years this was a negative for a lot of carpenters who are not framers.
In my opinion, worm drive saws are unmatched for their line of sight and blade visibility [blade on left for right handers] as well as their ample power. As a carpenter I can attest that my job site needs change and evolve with newly developed materials, updated building techniques and streamlined methods of working. Todays worm drives are lighter like the DEWALT 13.8 saw.
Many carpenters who do rafter and stair work would have a worm drive and a sidewinder for the opposing bevels.
Sidewinders or direct drive saws are small, light and get the job done. I personally own both and if I’m making a few cuts I use the lighter sidewinder. If I’m on a framing job – it’s the worm drive.
I’d love to hear what type and brand of circular saw you use and why?
photo: Fine Homebuilding
]]>The best roof top tent is out there, waiting for you to grab it and take it on an adventure of a lifetime. Now more than ever, buyers have an opportunity to choose between a plethora of high-quality roof top tents that fit most budgets and uses. The most expensive roof top tent, isn’t always the right tent, and the cheapest roof top tent doesn’t mean it’s of poor quality.
I’ve got a 1989 FJ62 Land Cruiser and a 2008 F-150. Both are setup with racks to accommodate a roof top tent, so I’ve had an opportunity to personally test all of these here. There are a few listed that I’ve only seen at trade shows such as Overland Expo and Outdoor Retailer, but most of these I’ve spent multiple nights in, so I can attest to their quality and comfort.
Before choosing a roof top tent, you need to first answer these questions, which will help narrow down your choices.
What is your budget?
How do you plan on using your roof top tent?
How often will you use your roof top tent?
How many people will be sleeping in the tent?
Once you’ve answered these questions, you’ll have a better idea of what type of roof top tent you need as well as the size. Here’s a list of the best roof top tents we’ve personally used or checked out.
Most roof top tents are completely separate units from the racks they attach to. They can include mounting brackets to fit round, aero, and square bars, but there are hardly any native solutions. Front Runner Outfitters is one of the most comprehensive roof top tent systems you can find. The strength of their roof racks is validated by years of use in the jungles of South Africa, and their roof top tent lives up to their reputation.
The Front Runner roof top tent can be used with any type of rack system, but their innovative quick-release roof top tent system is a real winner. Just slide your tent into the four locking mounts and off you go.
The Yakima hits the sweet spot in terms of price and accessibility for most people who are considering buying a roof top tent. Many people already have Yakima roof racks or bike racks and most of these people are weekend warriors or action sports enthusiasts. They year for a quick and easy way to setup a campsite and are enamored by the advantages of roof top tents.
Casual users may also be more likely to remove the tent between trips as it’s likely they will only use the tent 2-5 times per year. The hardcore overland crowd might scoff at the Yakima, but we can attest to it’s durability and ease of use. We did have a bolt loosen on us after a few hundred miles, so make certain everything is tight as you assemble it.
Hard shell roof top tents are the most durable of the bunch and can remain on your vehicle for months at a time. With some models you can also attach gear to the top of the tent which is a huge advantage over other tents, as roof top storage is often lost when using a roof top tent.
Most hard shell roof top tents are opened with hydraulic arms that lift the top instantly. No more fiddling with extra zippers or covers. Closing a hard shell tent is just as easy.
The main disadvantage to hard shell roof top tents is that they are heavier, which makes them more difficult to attach and remove as well as store. A heavier tent can also impact your mileage as it adds more to the overall weight of the vehicle. It also moves the center of gravity higher, so if you are already carrying a tire or other heavy gear up top, a hard shell tent adds even more weight.
Among hard shell roof top tents, the best we’ve seen are from James Baroud. These tents are around the most expensive you’ll find, but the features are quality are tough to match.
Tepui has been one of the top names in roof top tents for years, and they recently introduced an all-season solution that allows you to replace the canopy on your tent based on the conditions you will encountering. The Baja Series features a mesh shade canopy for hot humid weather or a lightweight nylon rip-stop canopy for spring time, or an aluminized canopy for inclement weather. A detachable rainfly is also included.
This solves an issue for campers who use their tents year round and travel to areas with a variety of weather conditions.
There are plenty more roof top tent companies that we want to mention, that have been building quality tents for years and have legions of fans behind them.
Cascadia Vehicle Tents (CVT) is seen on more rigs than almost any other tent, and the reason is simple. They have one of the deepest selections of roof top tents available, so it’s likely you’ll find the size you need at the price you want. From two-person roof top tents to four-person and larger tents, CVT can setup your car or truck with a durable and long-lasting tent to fit your needs.
Smittybilt has been making off-road gear for ages, and their roof top tent is one of the top rated tents on Amazon. For $870 you’ll get a roof top tent that includes many of the same features you’d find on higher priced tents.
The number one goal of a roof top tent is to make your car camping experience more enjoyable. Nothing beats waking up to a gorgeous sunrise when you’re seven feet off the ground.
]]>Watch video on YouTube here: Commercial Roofing Denver via Commercial Roofing Pros
Watch video on YouTube here: Commercial Roofing Denver via Commercial Roofing Pros
Watch video on YouTube here: Commercial Roofing Denver via Commercial Roofing Pros
Watch video on YouTube here: Commercial Roofing Denver via Commercial Roofing Pros
Watch video on YouTube here: Commercial Roofing Denver via Commercial Roofing Pros
Watch video on YouTube here: Commercial Roofing Denver via Commercial Roofing Pros
Watch video on YouTube here: Commercial Roofing Denver via Commercial Roofing Pros
Watch video on YouTube here: Commercial Roofing Denver via Commercial Roofing Pros
Watch video on YouTube here: Commercial Roofing Denver
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DEAR TIM: I'm getting bids on a new roof and some of the roofers want to use a nail gun to install the shingles. Is this a good idea?
I've also heard stories about inferior galvanized nails that don't hold up and start to rust soon after being installed.
What type of nails would you use when installing shingles on your home and why? How can you tell the difference between different galvanized nails? Cheri B., McAlester, OK
DEAR CHERI: Roofing nail guns are mainstream now and accepted by just about every roofing material manufacturer that I know of.
Drive Nails Correctly
It's important the guns drive the nails correctly per the written instructions of the shingle manufacturer, so be sure to take the time to read the written installation instructions about this.
Nails Need To Outlast Roof Material
While you're checking out the instructions, pay attention to the type of nail the shingle manufacturer recommends so you don't void the warranty. Realize the fastener is the lifeline of the roofing material.
It's vital the fasteners last longer than the actual roofing material. If the nails or fasteners rust and fail, the shingles can succumb to gravity and/or be blown away in a moderate breeze.
Free & Fast Bids
CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local roofers who can supply the BEST NAILS.
Many Inferior Nails Used
You should be very concerned about using inferior roofing nails. I'm in the process right now of re-roofing my own home.
I didn't build the home I live in. It was constructed just fourteen years ago.
It had a heavy-duty architectural shingle on it that was supposed to last forty years, but it started to fail two years ago. You can read the saga of my failed asphalt shingle roof - Roofing Ripoff.
Cheap Nails
Now that I'm taking off the curled, brittle shingles that are losing granules by the minute, I see the roofer used cheaper electroplated galvanized nails, many of which are rusting.
Gold Standard
When it comes to galvanized nails for roofing, the gold standard is hot-dipped galvanized nails. These steel nails are cleaned chemically and then immersed in a vat of molten zinc that sometimes contains some lead.
The molten zinc is very hot, usually between 815 - 850 F.
All the nails have been galvanized. The one being held was electro-plated and it’s rusting after just 12 years. Next to it is a new electro-plated nail. The four gray ones are hot-dipped nails, some have a distinctive irregular coating of pure zinc. The irregular ingots are solid zinc. Photo Credit: Tim Carter
Hot-Dipped Galvanizing Video
Watch this video to see the steps it takes to hot-dip galvanize any steel item. It's fascinating.
Fast Process
It doesn't take long for the steel nails to rise up to that temperature and when they do, the steel atoms vibrate rapidly and interlock with the zinc atoms creating a zinc-steel alloy that resists rust quite well.
When the nails come out of the molten zinc, they also have an additional coating of pure zinc on them.
CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local roofers who can supply the BEST NAILS.
Best Dipped Twice
Zinc doesn't rust and the coating protects the steel from the ravages of water. The best nails get a second dipping in the molten zinc bath.
Other Ways Not So Good
There are three other processes of galvanizing nails, but they simply don't offer the level of protection as hot dipping. Hot galvanizing is a process whereby zinc dust or chips tumble in a hot drum with cold steel nails.
IMPORTANT TIP: The hot galvanizing process doesn't sufficiently heat up the steel to produce a zinc alloy on all the nails. This process is cheaper to do for nail manufacturers than hot dipping.
Mechanically Plated
Nails can also be mechanically plated with zinc dust. The cold steel nails tumble around with the zinc dust, tiny glass beads and a chemical.
The glass beads and the chemical work to apply a thin coating on zinc on the nails. Once again, this process doesn't create the all-important alloy and the zinc coating can be uneven and thin.
Electroplating - The Worst In My Opinion
The final process is electroplating. Here the cold steel nails are immersed in a chemical liquid where electricity is applied to the solution and a very thin coating of zinc is applied to the steel.
These are very common nails your roofer may use for your shingles. These are the WORST ones. They look gorgeous, but they're electroplated. DO NOT ACCEPT THESE. CLICK THE PHOTO to discover MORE about these nails.
This process produces very shiny nails that almost look like too good to be true. They don't have much zinc on them and as I can attest, they rust in short order when exposed to the elements. They can even rust when NOT EXPOSED.
In my case and in many roofs across the USA, electroplated nails are rusting just from the CONDENSATION under the shingles! This condensation happens on many nights when dew forms on the cool nails because water vapor is present under the shingles.
When the sun comes out and heats up the roof, the water evaporates. The process starts all over again when the sun goes down and the roof starts to cool.
Electroplating Galvanizing Video
Here's a poor quality video showing the electroplating process. Only the first 30 seconds and last 30 seconds are important to watch.
All the video in between is just the drum turning and the chemical coating the bare steel washers.
The white plastic tank contains a liquid chemical that's transferring the zinc to the bare washers. It's NOT a giant vat of PURE MOLTEN zinc.
New Hot-Dipped Nails
Years ago, it was impossible to locate hot-dipped galvanized nails that would be comparable with nail guns. Fortunately, it's possible to get them for just about any roofing nailer.
IMPORTANT TIP: Be sure your contract with the roofer specifies hot-dipped galvanized nails and pay close attention to the minimum length called for by the shingle manufacturer. Be sure you LOOK AT THE BOX LABELS when the roofers come. You want to see the words 'hot dipped' on the label.
Nail Length
If you're applying a thin shingle to a wood surface and no other shingles are present, you might be able to get by with nails that are only one and one-quarter-inch long. The shingle warranties are very specific about the nail length and you want the right nail so they have enough holding power to resist blowing off by strong winds.
Look At Label
To tell the difference between nails, you probably need a little bit of experience. The first thing to look at is the labeling on the boxes or containers the nails come in.
The wording must say hot-dipped. If you just see the word *galvanized*, that's not enough. Don't be fooled by the words *hot galvanized* either. CLICK HERE to see a label with false advertising on it. These were being sold at one of the big box retailers you probably go to all the time!!!!1
It's got to say hot-dipped galvanized.
Traditional Hot-Dipped Nails
Hot-dipped galvanized nails not used in a nail gun are usually very distinctive. Often they have clumps of zinc on the shaft or the coating of zinc is somewhat uneven on some of the nails. Go back up and look at the photo of these nails at the top of this column.
You may even discover small ingots of zinc in the box or nail container. Other methods of galvanizing leave a much smoother appearance on the nail surfaces than hot dipping.
The Nails I Use
I'm using hot-dipped nails because I want no rusting. I want my realistic and gorgeous synthetic slate shingles to stay attached to my roof when any number of punishing nor'easter storms pummel my house with howling gale-force winds.
I have a feeling I'll be out the next day helping to secure my neighbors' roofs because their roofers chose to use the cheaper nails. Don't you make that mistake.
CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local roofers who can supply the BEST NAILS.
Column 1097
]]>To get ready for the old man, it was time to do some rustproofing on some things of mine that stay outdoors and other things that are stored in my unheated shed / garage.
I discovered long ago that a 50/50 mixture of used motor oil and diesel fuel does a magnificent job of preventing rust.
I brush on a thin coat on all my garden tools that I put away for the season. You can use it on any metal that gets wet. I've found it's best to do this outdoors and to let the coating dry before bringing the tools back into the garage.
You may have another rustproofing method that achieves the same goal that doesn't involve paint.
So tell me what you do to prevent rust without using paint that peels. I'm always interested!
Power Tool Survey
Would you be kind enough to spend 60 seconds taking a quick survey? It's about power tools and one brand in particular.
I've been receiving requests to review certain tools and often I have to convince the manufacturer that you're really interested in the tools.
CLICK HERE to help me help you make better tool investments!
You can see the survey results from others who have taken the survey before you. Just SCROLL to the TOP of the survey form AFTER you click the SUBMIT button and then click the SEE PREVIOUS RESPONSES text link.
New Air Infiltration Product
Dow has introduced a new water-based foam product to help stop air leaks in new construction.
Framing lumber is not always straight. Air that somehow gets into walls can sneak into or out of your home via tiny gaps between the drywall and framing lumber.
Imagine if there was a gasket between the edges of the drywall and the framing lumber? Ta Da!
CLICK HERE to discover more about the Dow GREAT STUFF PRO Gasket system.
Hurricane & Other Storm Leaks
Several days ago, I received quite a few emails about wind-driven water leaks from folks who endured the wrath of Hurricane Irma.
It seems there's a myth out there that if you have a brick home, it's waterproof. I'm thinking this misconception comes from the Three Little Pigs fable, even though the wolf was just blowing air.
Nothing could be further from the truth.
CLICK HERE to get a friendly reminder on what happens in a big storm when the wind is lashing your brick, stone or any home with rain drops.
Quirky Questions
I'm going to try to see if this new feature is sustainable.
As you might imagine, I get LOTS of questions each week. Some are mundane, many are very complex and others are downright quirky!
When you have a question, always submit it to the Ask Tim page and include PHOTOS if you can!
Quirky is not so bad and provides a fascinating insight as to what's going on out there.
Here's one that Susan sent to me last night. She lives in Big Springs, WV. That town name is a clue to part of my answer!
" I want to excavate a cave into the hillside and finish it into the back rooms of a house. I know I will have to provide for water runoff, and put an air inlet and outlet for fresh air. In W. Va., the mountains are mostly rock. None of the answers about excavating a foundation are nowhere near what I want to do."
What about that for a question? Here was my answer:
Sue,
This is so easy. Talk to a few local coal miners.
In all seriousness, there are MAJOR issues with respect to groundwater control, deadly gases, rock collapse, etc. when thinking of spending time underground in a cave.
Experienced miners have a handle on all of this.
Battery-Powered Blower
I'm putting together a photo review of a dandy little battery-powered blower I've been testing for about four months.
I prefer to really put tools to the test before sharing my results with you. Not all tool reviewers do that.
Some of my peers get a box from their UPS driver and within a few hours there's a fancy tool review up. They never actually take the tool out and test it.
Yes, this is true.
These fast reviews gives *some* PR people and tool sales managers a tingle up their leg, but it does little good for you.
You need honest reviews where the reviewer has decades of experience using tools in paying customers' homes. This experience allows the reviewer to have a base line for overall performance.
As for the blower, you're going to LOVE IT!!!! Why? Because I do!!!
That's quite enough for today.
Tim Carter
Founder - www.AsktheBuilder.com
Do It Right, Not Over!
]]>There are no trick questions here!
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]]>DEAR TIM: As result of Hurricane Irma, I had a leak in the ceiling in the bay area of our kitchen. It happened in the past with other intense storms.
I suspect the problem could be water penetrating the brick and/or wind driven rain entering under the facia and over and down the inside of the inside face of the brick. The brick lentil spans across the bay, so if water is making its way in, it has nowhere to go but to the drywall ceiling in the kitchen.
Before I dig into this and hire contractors, I’d like your opinion. What’s going on and what’s the best way to fix it? How could this leak have been prevented when my house was built? Jim McV., Cumming, GA
DEAR JIM: You and thousands and thousands of other homeowners suffered damage from wind-driven rain from Hurricane Irma.
Physics Formula
All you have to do is recall your high school physics class and it starts to make sense. Remember the simple formula: Force equals mass multiplied by acceleration?
F = ma
Water is heavy. If you need a refresher course on this, just open up your car window as you drive in a gentle rain shower and see what the drops feel like hitting your hand at only 50 mph much less 100 mph or greater!
Free & Fast Bids
Each Drop A Hammer Blow
Each water drop that smashes against the side of your house is like a hammer driving the previous water drop deeper into any crack, opening or other tiny space where normal down-falling rain causes no issues.
The fable about the three little pigs and brick homes didn’t cover wind-driven rain! ©2017 Tim Carter
All Brick Leaks
Brick walls leak water. It’s been a known fact for well over 100 years.
Builders and brick masons many decades ago realized this and used two different bricks to construct exterior walls. The entry point of most of the water is the vertical mortar joints that are called head joints.
Old Buildings Had Soft Inner Brick
While to the naked eye it seems that the mortar and brick make an impenetrable barrier, such is not the case. Old brick buildings had a softer absorbent brick that was used on the inside of the wall.
This brick was designed to soak up the leaking water and then immediately release it back to the air once the sun came out and the breeze pulled all moisture from the wall.
The soft inner brick was made by not firing the brick in the kiln as long as the harder outer layer brick that had to be more weather resistant. The hotter and longer you fire a brick in a kiln, the more weather resistant the brick becomes.
You can fire some brick so long that they become almost as hard as granite and as durable. Many older streets in cities and towns had these super-hard brick laid as roadways. You can still see them in downtown Athens, Ohio at the entrance to Ohio University.
Brick Wall Video
This is a pretty decent very BASIC video about brick wall construction. In parts of the video you can see the wall is two brick wide. Imagine if this were for a home and the inner layer was a different softer brick.
Modern Brick = Niagara Falls
Modern brick veneer construction discarded this wonderful system that’s worked for ages. Now the water that leaks into the wall, as you’ve already surmised, runs down the back of the brick much like the water over Niagara Falls. It’s easy for it to find a way into most homes as you’ve discovered.
Multiple Flashings
Modern builders who use brick veneer are supposed to install flashings at every horizontal break in the brick wall. This means there needs to be a flashing at the lintel that’s hidden behind the roof of your kitchen bay, above and below every window, door and any other thing on the wall that’s not brick.
Wood Walls Need Protection
The wall framing must be covered with a waterproof material that overlaps like roof shingles so any water that ends up touching it can’t get to the wood framing of the home nor to the interior wall and ceiling systems.
You can see the water-saturated brick. Many gallons of water seeped into the brick during the hurricane. ©2017 Tim Carter
Base Flashing
At the base of the brick wall, there needs to be a flashing that captures all the water and redirects it to the outside of the house. This means there needs to be plentiful weep holes, and there needs to be a mesh product or some other system behind the wall that ensures wet mortar that falls behind the wall can’t interfere with the movement of the water to the outside of the house.
Great Skills & Magic
It takes great skill to install all these flashings and membranes. The Brick Industry Association has many detailed technical publications showing how all this is supposed to happen during construction. But for you, it’s now a moot point. You need to go to plan B.
Wall Water Repellent
Your job now is to apply the best silane siloxane water repellent money can buy.
This is a magnificent silane - siloxane water repellent that soaks into brick and mortar joints. CLICK THIS IMAGE NOW TO HAVE THIS DELIVERED TO YOUR HOME.
It may require two coats. What’s more, these two applications need to happen within minutes of each other. If you wait too long between coats, the first coat could block the second coat from penetrating the mortar and brick!
The best of these clear sealers have microscopic solids that can help plug up the minute passageways that water is using to cause your leaks. It’s going to take a little research on your part to locate the best sealer.
Water damage to the ceiling, due to driving rain. ©2017 Tim Carter
Two People & Blower
When you apply it, be sure two people are working as a team. One will be equipped with a backpack leaf blower.
This is a fantastic backpack leaf blower. I own this one and love it. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO HAVE IT DELIVERED TO YOUR HOME.
As the person with the spray wand applies the sealer, the worker with the blower directs the wind blast right at the wall driving the wet sealer deep into the brick and mortar joints just as Irma did with the rain. You want the sealer to penetrate deep into the wall.
Sun Degrades Brush-On Sealers
Years ago I ran across a milky liquid you could brush on the mortar joints and a small amount of the brick. It would dry clear and act as a barrier to the driving rain. But recent research of mine while writing a book about defective asphalt shingles indicates this product will no doubt break down with exposure to direct sunlight. While it may work for a while, eventually the ultraviolet rays of the sun will destroy the film.
Column 1214
]]>Sheila Wilde from Pocatello, Idaho emailed me. She's an energetic older DIY woman who had a great question.
"How can I sink the finishing head nail into the wood near the curved areas of a molding I'm installing?
I started there and then went on to use the wider area with the nail gun, which holds 1-inch finishing nails.
I've tried two ways, but one marred the wood and the other just didn't work out. Any help would be appreciated."
I compliment you Sheila on your spirit and drive!
Nail Gun Issues
Let's talk about the nail gun issue. The wood trim you're using must be very soft or you pressed too hard when using the nail gun.
Most nail guns will not mar the surface and the only depression you see is the shape of the finish nail.
I'll also add that a 1-inch nail is probably not long enough. You need the nail to penetrate the molding, then through the drywall into solid wood. You'll discover you often need a 2-inch nail to accomplish this.
If you're applying a wood trim over solid wood, then a 1-inch nail might be sufficient.
Great Finish Nail Gun
Here's a fantastic cordless nail gun I've used. It requires no gas cartridges, no hoses, no compressor, etc. You just take it out of the bag and squeeze the trigger.
It drives nails perfectly each time I've used it. What's more, my first nail gun was a Senco. It's a brand I love and trust!
This is an amazing cordless finish nailer. Here I'm using it outdoors on a piece of exterior trim. It works even better indoors on fine pieces of small woodwork. CLICK THE PHOTO NOW to have this tool delivered to your doorstep in days.
Free & Fast Bids
CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local finish carpenters who can sink finish nails with ease.
Finish Nail Gun Video
Watch this very informative video about how to use a finish nail gun to get perfect results.
Traditional Nail Sets
If you can't afford a finish nail gun, then you just need to use a traditional nail set.
These are small hand tools that allow you to drive a finish nail into wood keeping the head of the hammer far away from the wood.
These are standard nail sets. The yellow one has the smallest tip. These are very affordable and work well. CLICK THE PHOTO to have these nail sets delivered to your doorstep in days.
Different Sizes
The nail sets come in different sizes or widths. The tip of the nail set is designed to fit into the tiny dimple you probably have overlooked that in the head of a finish nail.
This dimple cradles the tip of the nail set so it doesn't drift or slip off the nail as you tap the nail set with the hammer.
Nail Set Video
Watch this carpenter use a nail set to drive a nail below the surface of the wood.
IMPORTANT TIP: The only mistake I feel he made is that he gave the nail one extra blow to get it VERY CLOSE to the wood.
I wouldn't do this if you're a rookie! There's too great a chance the hammer head will touch the wood.
CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local finish carpenters who can sink finish nails with ease.
DEAR TIM: The natural gas lines that are being installed in our new home are not the heavy black iron pipe. They're a new flexible stainless steel piping system that is installed like electrical wire.
What is this material? Is it safe to use? Are there advantages to using this pipe?
Can you cut into the pipe at a future date to install an added gas appliance? Is there another alternative gas piping material? Betsy F., Augusta, GA
DEAR BETSY: Congratulations! You're now the proud owner of some wonderful corrugated stainless steel tubing (CSST). This material was approved for residential use in 1988 by the National Fuel Gas Code.
Code Approved But....
It's an ingenious method of supplying natural gas to fireplaces, furnaces, cooktops, clothes dryers and any other gas appliance. Virtually all state and local code authorities permit its use and many contractors are finally embracing it.
I have this flexible gas line in my own home in central New Hampshire and never worry about it at all. Some plumbers will tell you it's faster and cheaper to install this new CSST piping.
I happen to be a master plumber and given the choice I'd install traditional threaded black iron pipe. More on this in a just a moment.
CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local plumbers to install flexible gas lines in your home.
CSST Video
Watch this video to see how CSST pipe is installed.
Works Well
I remember when the material was first introduced. Many of my fellow contractors who install gas lines thought it was unsafe. Some of their arguments never made sense to me.
For as long as I have been in the home building business, we always used similar brass appliance connector tubing when gas was supplied to a clothes dryer, a cooktop, or a gas range.
Here are two short pieces of the flexible stainless-steel gas lines. You can practically tie it in a knot it is so flexible. If you have lots of pipe to run, this may be the way to go. © 2017 Tim Carter
Hundreds of thousands of houses have these corrugated appliance connectors in service right now. They have worked swell for many years.
Thin Walls, Lightning and Screws
The argument that did make sense to me was the thin nature of the pipe. There are lots of instances of houses that have been destroyed in gas fires because CSST pipe was ruptured by a lightning strike.
The pipe in the walls acts like an interior lightning rod. It's vital to follow all instructions provided by CSST manufacturers and to BOND the tubing electrically.
Errant screws or nails used to attach cabinets, trim, pictures, etc. can puncture this pipe. That would never happen with a piece of traditional black iron pipe.
Only a direct hit from a hot bolt of lightning will bore a hole in traditional black iron pipe.
Dangers Of CSST Video
Watch this video to see what you think about the dangers of the material.
My CSST
The current home I live in here in central New Hampshire had these flexible gas lines installed in 2001. I've had no issues with them at all and I even had to do a kitchen remodel where I extended an existing line.
Fast Install
The CSST has many advantages. Perhaps the biggest one is labor savings. Traditional black iron pipe takes a lot of time to cut and thread.
I know as I have installed thousands of linear feet of the heavy material. As you said, the new CSST is installed like electrical wire.
You simply pull the material between two points and cut it to length with simple tubing cutters.
Black Iron = Lots Of Labor
Black iron pipe is the exact opposite. A typical black iron pipe installation requires a professional to precisely measure, cut, and thread the individual pieces of pipe. All of these steps are very time consuming.
CLICK HERE to get FREE BIDS from Plumbers to install Flexible Gas Lines.
Fewer Leak Locations!
When you use CSST, you can minimize potential gas leaks. A typical black iron pipe installation has many 90 degree, tee and coupling fittings.
These fittings are used each time you change directions or join two pieces of straight pipe together. Each of the cast fittings can be the source of a leak.
What's more, the threaded joints on both sides of the fitting can also be potential leak points. Because the CSST snakes its way around bends and obstructions as one solid piece of tubing, you only have a fitting at each end of the line. If you do have a leak, these fittings are almost always readily accessible for adjustment.
Not DIY Friendly
Working with CSST is not really a do-it-yourself proposition. Many of the manufacturers of this material require professional installers to take a short training course that familiarizes them with the small nuances of this unique gas piping system.
Two Install Choices
This is traditional black iron pipe. Each end of a piece of pipe must be threaded. It is messy and hard work, but I must admit I sort of enjoy it. © 2017 Tim Carter
Adding Lines
Adding additional gas lines at a future date is not a problem if you plan for the possibility during the original installation. The CSST systems can be installed one of two ways:
The series installation resembles traditional black iron piping. A larger diameter main line CSST pipe supplies gas to smaller branch tubes that feed each appliance. This is often the easiest system to adapt at a future date.
Manifold Method
A parallel CSST system mimics an electric panel. All of the gas lines that feed each appliance start at a central distribution point. To add a line in the future you need to have an extra gas port on the manifold within the panel.
Soft Copper Maybe?
If you are not able to get CSST tubing and can't handle working with black iron pipe, consider using soft copper. It offers all of the same advantages of the CSST systems.
Soft copper is approved for interior residential gas piping in many cities and towns. You don't solder it like water lines.
Flare Fittings
Connections are made with common flare fittings that tighten with standard wrenches. The only specialized tool you need is a flaring tool made to fit the pipe size you are working with.
If you use copper for gas lines in your home, be sure to label them so a future weekend warrior doesn't mistake them for a water line!
CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local plumbers to install flexible gas lines in your home.
Author's Notes:
If you have ANY DOUBTS about flexible gas lines or CSST, visit a local firehouse and talk to the team leader that's on duty. Visit SEVERAL fire houses to get different opinions.
In regard to your article on the CSST systems being installed in new homes. If you care to, read an article that was published in April of 2003 in the Dallas News regarding banning this installation in the city of Frisco, Collin County, Texas. Lightning strikes have caused numerous fires in residential homes as a result of CSST failing. Although the manufacturer states that it is completely safe, in fact safer than ridged black pipe, it has some serious issues. I have seen three fires in our own community as a result of CSST failure. The manufacturer accepts no responsibility for improper installation, and does not provide in any great detail, of detrimental or catastrophic failure if done so. I just saw your article and thought I would provide feedback. If you have questions on the article I mentioned, you may contact the Dallas News. Thank you for your time.
Maxwell J. Brunner
Lieutenant
Menomonee Falls Fire Department
Email- maxbrunner@menomonee-falls.org
I responded to this very interesting email with a few thoughts of my own. My first suspicion would be that the tubing acts like a lightning rod of sorts. The thin walls of CSST might not seem to handle as much of a strike as black iron. Black iron is so much thicker that it may actually take a lightning strike better.
I suggest you look up the article in the Dallas News if you want more details.
Column 296
]]>DEAR TIM: My house has a combination of wood and vinyl siding. The wood siding needs a fresh coat of paint, but I want the color of the two sidings to be consistent.
My wife wants a new color that is different than what we have now. Can I successfully paint vinyl siding?
If it is possible, are there special paints and techniques that I must use? Donald N., Scranton, PA
DEAR DONALD: If you had asked this question several years ago, I don't think you would have liked the answer. But fortunately, there have been some major breakthroughs in the paint and coatings industry.
New Sticky Paints
Several new exterior paints are available that have been formulated to stick to vinyl siding. They perform so well that the paint manufacturers offer a long-term warranty so long as you follow the paint label instructions.
Vinyl Expands & Contracts
Painting vinyl siding is challenging for several reasons. Vinyl siding has a very high expansion/contraction coefficient.
This simply means that it expands and contracts significantly as it experiences periods of exposure to sunlight and then periods of shade or darkness. When direct sunlight hits the siding, it grows dramatically.
This movement of the siding caused older traditional exterior paints to fail in short order as the bond between the paint and the siding was severed by this constant back and forth movement.
Painting Vinyl Siding Video
Here's how pros paint vinyl siding. I can't vouch that everything they're doing in the video is correct, but if you do decide to paint, you may want to use a sprayer as you see in the video. It's the ONLY way to apply paint to vinyl.
Free & Fast Bids
CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local painters.
Dark Colors & Heat
Vinyl siding also soaks up heat to a great degree. If it gets too hot, it can buckle and distort.
This is vinyl siding. It was dark red from the factory, but it's faded as you can see. Because the vinyl is dark it's going to expand even more when the sun's rays strike it. Copyright 2017 Tim Carter
Lighter Colors Better
This is why many vinyl products are offered in lighter colors. Because of this fact, you can actually damage your vinyl siding if you paint it a color that is too dark.
IMPORTANT TIP: The paint manufacturers highly recommend that you paint the vinyl siding a color that is no darker than the current shade of your vinyl siding.
Stay in Shade Family
For example, if your siding is currently a light shade of beige, you can paint it a light shade of green, blue, tan, etc. The trick is to use paint store color chip cards to guide you.
Locate a color that is as close as possible to your existing vinyl siding. Use that color chip card as a benchmark and find complimentary paint chip cards that have the same depth of color as the paint chip that matches your siding.
You can then select a color that is equal to or less in color richness and depth as your existing vinyl siding color.
Urethane Paint
You must use the right paint to achieve victory. The ones that seem to work best with vinyl siding are ones that have a urethane resin. You can also use a paint that has a blend of urethane and acrylic resins.
CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local painters.
Super Sticky
Water-based urethane paints have extraordinary adhesive qualities. This is exactly what one needs to combat the daily movement of the vinyl siding.
Here's a great urethane-fortified paint. That's why on the label it says it's for porches and floors! It's tough enough to walk on so you know it will perform really well on your vinyl siding where no one can walk except squirrels. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO have this paint delivered to your home.
Exterior latex paints that contain urethane are readily available. Simply look for the word urethane on the label of the paint can.
Squeaky Clean
To get the absolute best results from this paint job you need to do a few other things. I feel that a clean, dry surface is very important.
If you clean your house like your own body or your car, you'll have a great head start. This means using soap and water and some good old-fashioned elbow grease.
Rub & Scrub
Stain Solver is MADE in the USA with USA ingredients that are food-grade quality. CLICK THE IMAGE to order some NOW.
You must mechanically remove the dirt film from the existing painted surfaces with soapy sponges, rags or brushes.
The best cleaning solution is a mixture of Stain Solver certified organic oxygen bleach and a small amount of liquid Dawn dish soap.
Stain Solver is a powder you mix with water. I use hot water and stir it for two minutes making sure all of the powder is dissolved.
You apply it to vinyl siding that's in the shade. Keep the siding wet with the solution for up to 15 minutes then scrub the siding with a brush used to clean RVs.
Pressure Washers No Good
Don't count on pressure washers to clean your existing surfaces. Not only do they not get all the dirt off the surfaces, but they also can inject massive amounts of water into and behind the siding. This hidden water can cause big problems as you begin to apply the new paint.
Remove Mildew
If mildew is present on the existing surfaces, use an oxygen bleach solution to remove it. Stain Solver Oxygen bleach will not harm the vinyl siding nor any vegetation near your home.
IMPORTANT TIP: Avoid chlorine bleach as it's highly toxic to vegetation.
Shade Is Your Friend
Painting in direct sunlight is also not the best idea. If you can paint your home in cooler weather and preferably on overcast days, the paint will have excellent conditions in which to dry and bond to the vinyl siding and existing wood siding.
Windy, hot and sunny weather is not the best time to paint contrary to what many people believe.
CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local painters.
Message from Tim:
Years ago while researching a column about cleaning decks, I discovered the wonders of Oxygen Bleach. It is perhaps the 'greenest' cleaner I know of as it uses oxygen ions to break apart stains, dirt and odor molecules. There are no harsh chemicals, and it works on just about anything that is water washable. I decided to create my own special blend using ingredients made in the USA. In fact, the raw materials in the active ingredient are food-grade quality registered with the FDA. I call my product Stain Solver. I urge you to use it to help with cleaning your vinyl siding. You will be amazed at the results! |
I think it's a scale issue. The wonders of Mother Nature are so much larger than us and contain such vast amounts of power and fury.
Your appetite to know more about hurricanes, cyclones, tornados, earthquakes, forest fires, blizzards, etc. no doubt is hard coded into your brain stem.
I feel part of the attraction is scarcity. All of those natural forces can take away something from you that's pretty valuable - your life.
Then there's the inner morbid curiosity we all seem to possess that Don Henley explores in his famous hit song Dirty Laundry.
If you've not listened closely to the lyrics, you should.
CLICK HERE to read them.
You & Clutter
Let's be honest with one another. I'd like you to answer these questions:
The past three weeks I've been involved in a massive project here at my house solving all those above problems. It's a project you might have to do to, but have been putting off.
I put mine off for nine years and simple could no longer stand it.
Years of clutter are disappearing. I've just about wrestled the demon to the ground. I can see large sections of floor again in my shed.
I'll be able to park two vehicles in the garage this winter with lots of extra space.
My garage attic will be so open I may create a man cave extension with a lounge chair and my model-trains-under-glass coffee table!
I inherited the horrible packratitis disease from my mother. She had a chronic case. I don't have it quite as bad as she did, but I'm infected. My wife Kathy may disagree.
I just wanted to share how liberating it is to be free of so much stuff. It's a fantastic feeling.
I was able to sell many things. Other things went to the free room at our town dump. I discovered the best thing to do is create a FREE pile in the garage and when someone comes to buy something, they can pick anything they want from the pile. It's a FUN GAME and people are delighted to get something for free in addition to paying for what they came for. It's a win win win.
To help put the declutter icing on the cake I had Kathy order a few things for me yesterday from Amazon.com. I need to finish organizing decades of accumulated nails, screws, bolts, nuts and many other small items that are very handy to have.
You can have your own small hardware store and save yourself LOTS of money. Have you noticed the outlandish price hardware stores and big box stores charge for one screw, bolt or nut? WOWZA! No way I'm throwing all mine out!!!
I've had lots of great durable plastic bins for years. I got most of mine 30 years ago. They were in the rear of my utility body truck holding nails, screws and other small parts.
Now they're on some narrow shelves in my garage, but I need more.
What you see above is an Akro bin. They come in all sorts of great sizes. They're also very affordable.
They come in about seven or eight colors. Black, red, blue, gray, green, yellow, purple, clear, bone, etc.
They stack very nicely. You can store lots of different things in these bins so you can find them!
I'm using different colors to help me easily identify groups of things like:
CLICK HERE to see all the Akro bins.
They have a lip on the back you can hang them from the Wall Control metal pegboard I so love. CLICK HERE to see the wonderful Wall Control pegboard I've got in my garage.
Stop the BANG!
Are you remodeling or getting ready to build a new home? Then you MUST give SERIOUS consideration to pocket doors.
Not just any pocket doors, but ones made by LE Johnson that have the newer soft-close feature. Yes, you can get heavy pocket doors to close SOFTLY and not BANG!!!
You've surely seen cabinet drawers and shelves and other sliding things that have this wonderful feature.
CLICK HERE to discover more about the fantastic LE Johnson soft close hardware.
Guess what? If you have an existing LE Johnson pocket door, there's a great chance you can ADD this new hardware.
It only takes a decent handyman about an hour to complete the job.
CLICK HERE to watch a video showing how the soft close STOPS a pocket door from SLAMMING going either direction.
CLICK HERE to see how to install the soft close hardware in a pocket door frame.
Subway Tile Backsplash - It's All In The Prep
I got a great question from Pam in Columbus, Ohio on Saturday.
It was so good I turned it into one of my national columns.
CLICK HERE to see an amazing photo.
Hurricanes / Floods & Mold
With all the extreme weather happening, it's time for you to get back up to speed on mold and how to STOP IT.
CLICK HERE for a quick refresher course on MOLD PREVENTION.
That's quite enough for today.
I've got some great projects happening here at my house this week and need to take advantage of the great weather.
I'll be taping a swell video or two tomorrow showing you step-by-step how to create threads on black iron pipe. You may not realize how easy it is to do assuming you've got the right tools!
I want you to understand it's not magic to cut threads on a smooth black iron pipe.
Tim Carter
Founder - www.AsktheBuilder.com
Do It Right, Not Over!
]]>Think of how many people are out there who just had a new roof put on this past year. Not counting the one million new homes built last year I'll bet there were at least three million new asphalt shingle roofs installed on existing homes in the USA. The sad fact is that the wide majority of those new roofs have no protection against roof algae. The roofers or the homeowners simply are unaware of the problem and unaware that you can buy shingles that have copper coated colored granules.
I hope you are not in this situation. If so, no problem, as there is a way for you to poison those little devils, bacteriologically known as Gloeocapsa magma. We just need to clean your roof and then introduce copper onto your shingles. I know, you may not like the look of a 2 inch copper strip at the top of your roof. However, it will look a whole lot better than the unsightly algae stains!
Clean the Roof First
Common sense should tell you that you need to clean your roof first. That process is described in another article.
Getting the Copper or Zinc
Sheet copper or zinc is usually available at any roofing supply house. These are the places that REAL roofers go to purchase their roofing products. Do NOT confuse these places with the large home center stores sprouting up everywhere! The roofing supply houses sell copper for all kinds of roofing uses. They also sell zinc. Both metals will kill the algae, but I think you should use copper. Zinc has a tendency to produce a grayish film over time, so it may discolor your shingles. Copper should not cause a problem on your roof.
How Many Strips and Where?
That's tough for me to answer without seeing your individual roof. One thing is for sure, you need the strips as high up on the roof as possible, so that the copper coats as many shingles as possible. Depending upon how long your roof is, you may need a strip of copper halfway up the roof as well. Some roofs are big, some small. One strip, across the entire roof, having a 2 inch exposure should protect 14 to 18 feet of roof below it. This photo shows how the strip should look once installed. This strip is near the top of the roof and is tucked under the last fully exposed course of shingles. It is a piece of tin, not copper, and is only 20 inches long. I didn't have a strip of copper in stock at the time I took the photo. I just wanted to show you what it should look like. Your strips will run the entire width of the roof.
Installation of the Strips
Most asphalt shingles are installed so that they have a five inch area of the shingle exposed to the weather. You will also notice that you don't see any visible nails. If you lift up a shingle you should see the nails. They are just above the bottom edge of the shingle you just lifted. This means that you should be able to slide a piece of metal up underneath a shingle and not hit anything for about six inches (five inch exposure plus one inch nail height.)
Can you see how you should be able to slide a piece of metal up under a shingle for about six inches? At this point, it hits the nails holding that shingle in place.
Your task is simple. Cut long 7 to 8 inch wide strips of copper. Slide them up under the shingles until you hit the nails. Then, every four feet or so, lift a shingle tab and drive a copper nail through the copper strip. When you let the shingle tab back down, it should completely cover the nail. If this doesn't make sense, you had better call a professional roofer. I have seen lots of mistakes by homeowners with good intentions.
Column B374
]]>DEAR TIM: We’re in the home stretch of a delightful bathroom remodel job. One of the final steps is to install subway ceramic tile as the backsplash above the dual-bowl sink.
The plaster wall above the new granite top needs to be repaired. After we removed the old ceramic tile there were giant holes.
My husband is in a hurry and wants to do the patch fast with a pre-mixed product that comes in a tub from the local big box store. I want your expert opinion as to the best way to repair the massive depressions in the wall from where old trim tile pieces were removed.
Do we need to remove the old hardened glue from the walls too? Pam L., Columbus, OH
DEAR PAM: I’m humbled that you feel the expert opinion will emanate from my fingertips as I type this!
Countless Wall Repairs
The truth be told I’ve been in the exact situation you’re now facing countless times while working in paying customers’ homes. The tile style changes from year to year, but the method of getting the wall ready for the tile has not changed.
High-Gloss Tile Shows Wall Defects
Let’s first talk about high-gloss finish ceramic tile first before we go much farther. We need to do this to slow down your husband so he keeps the key out of the car’s ignition as he tries to get to the big box store.
Have you ever noticed how a small dent in the door of a new car stands out like a sore thumb? The paint may not be chipped or scratched, but you can clearly see the inward depression.
Free & Fast Bids
CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local tile contractors who can do this repair for you.
Light Reflection
This happens on high gloss surfaces like car paint because the reflected light off the metal is bent by the dent. In other words, high gloss finishes are unforgiving if the surface beneath the gloss is not in the same plane.
Wall Must Be Flat & Smooth
If you want every aspect of your bathroom remodeling to be gorgeous, you need to be sure the wall surface under the tile is not only perfectly smooth, it needs to be in the same plane. If the subway tile pieces are not in the same plane on a flat surface, they’ll reflect light differently and it will look like a drunk tile setter installed them.
Here are the two monster defects in Pam's wall. See that uneven old yellow adhesive? It's got to go. Copyright 2017 Tim Carter
Repair Wall Early
I see by the photos you sent that the new granite top and faucets are installed. This is going to make the job of repairing the wall much harder as you work around these finished items. The wall repair should have been done long before the cabinet, top and faucets were installed.
Chain Of Adhesion
You also need to be concerned with what I call the chain of adhesion. What’s that old saying? “A chain is only as strong as its weakest link.” I can clearly see in your photo that you’ve got traditional plaster applied to gypsum lath panels nailed to the wall studs.
For the tile to stay affixed to the wall for decades, the bond between all the wall elements needs to be as strong as possible. The pre-mixed compounds I see in the big box stores contain very weak glues in almost all cases. What’s worse is some of the glues in these products are water soluble. Premixed drywall joint compound and common spackling are great examples of products with these weak glues.
Cheap Products Not Waterproof
Once these two products are dry, you can dissolve them by rubbing them with a wet sponge. Rub your plaster walls for days with a wet sponge and nothing happens except for you getting blisters and sore muscles. Plaster is waterproof and it bonds tenaciously to just about anything.
Remove Old Adhesive
Here’s how I’d proceed to make your walls ready for the stunning subway tile I’m sure you’ve selected. First you need to purchase some liquid adhesive remover.
Here's a great adhesive and mastic remover. Don't use just any adhesive remover. It needs to say it's made for tile mastic. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW to have this delivered to your home in days.
This product brushes on much like liquid paint remover. it’s imperative you protect the granite top and faucets and any other finished item like the front of the vanity cabinets from this harsh chemical.
CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local tile contractors who can do this repair for you.
Follow Directions
Follow the directions and get all the old yellowed tile glue off the plaster exposing the original white lime finish plaster. Once it’s off, now it’s time to start to repair the deep depressions.
Traditional Base Plaster
Purchase a bag of Structolite base plaster. You can get this online or from a local building supply store. Be sure the holes in the wall have all loose material removed and brush away and dust.
This is a fantastic gypsum base-coat plaster. You just mix it with water and it really sticks to wallboard and other old gypsum plaster. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW to have this bag at your doorstep in days.
Mix up the Structolite plaster per directions on the bag. You want it to be the consistency of somewhat stiff applesauce.
Structolite Mixing Video
Watch this video to see how to mix Structolite. For small amounts you can just mix by hand with a stiff 3-inch broad scraping knife.
Take a wet sponge and lightly pat the old base plaster in the hole to get it slightly damp just before you’re ready to apply the Structolite. Pack in the new plaster being sure to keep the new plaster 1/8-inch lower than the existing white lime plaster finish you exposed once you removed the old glue.
Use a straightedge to ensure the Structolite is lower than the old white lime plaster. Allow the Structolite to cure for one day.
Finish With Durabond 90
The next day fill in the slight depression and all other tiny holes in the plaster wall with Durabond 90. This is a dry-setting joint compound that’s much like the white lime finish plaster on the wall.
This is the dry setting joint compound I prefer. It mixes easily with water. Use COLD water to slow set time. Mix until it's like warm cake icing. CLICK THE PHOTO NOW TO HAVE THIS DELIVERED TO YOUR HOME. NO NEED TO FIGHT TRAFFIC AND RUDE SHOPPERS.
Mix it with water to the consistency of warm cake icing so it’s silky smooth. You only have 90 minutes to work with it before it gets hard. You can use cold water to slow the hardening process.
Take your time and be sure the wall surface is as smooth as glass and in the same plane. Use a long straightedge or metal level to help you locate small depressions that may exist in the old white plaster finish. Fill those with the Durabond 90 product so the final surface under the new subway tile is as flat as possible.
Durabond 90 Video
Watch this video to get an idea of how to work with quick-setting plaster or setting compound.
CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local tile contractors who can do this repair for you.
Column 1213
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